Preparation Steps

Each tradesman builds upon the work of the previous tradesman. Help us protect the property by assuring things are done right the first time. Let's do this right together!

Please call for more details or questions! (888) 696-1972
Regular Shower Pan Instructions
[]

If there is an old hot mop shower pan it must be removed to the wood framing and subfloor. Also note that the tile hardibacker gets installed after the hot mop.

  • Install a NEW drain. Must be the bolt-together type.
  • * Avoid drains with plastic female threading for the bolts.
  • Install drain so that the subflange is flush with the surrounding concrete or resting on the wood subfloor.
  • Set water threshold ("dam") to height at least 1" higher than top of finished drain. (usually three stacked 2x4's, or min of 3.5" height).
  • There must be at least 10" of solid blocking around the base of the walls. 2x10’s secured in between the studs flush with the studs is most common.
  • Any benches framed in must be solid on all sides and have at least 4" of backing on the walls around the seat where it meets a wall. Floating style seats must be solid on the underside as well.
  • Shower subfloor must be strong (not bend under weight) and level with no large holes or gaps.
  • The entire shower subfloor must be recessed a minimum of about 3"-4" below the outside subfloor.
  • The subfloor is recessed in order to set the flood level at a height at least 3/4" above the finished drain top. The hot mop will raise the finished drain top about 3/8" when complete.
  • * This 3/4” difference is a minimum technical requirement. Local code may require a larger difference depending on shower size, drain location, and ADA codes. Please consult your city code.
  • The drain subflange must be flush or no more than 1/4" above the surrounding shower subfloor.
  • We HIGHLY recommended using a three piece adjustable top drain for damless showers.
  • When recessing the shower subfloor make sure to keep the recess wall flush with the framing above it. Any jagged edges (due to jack hammer) must be smoothed out.
  • Make sure subfloor is solid (no holes or gaps) and sloped to the drain subflange or gutter.
  • Completely remove any old waterproof membranes and make sure deck is dry and clean.
  • Deck needs to be properly flashed* using at least 4" inch 'L' shaped metal flashing on all walls, steps, and transitions. This flashing needs to go behind wall wall moisture barrier.
  • * We do not do flashing. You must consult your local code requirements and/or a general contractor to make sure this is done correctly.

OR CALL:

(888) 696-1972
(888) 696-1972